A food lover's guide to Hyderabad

By the Nexara Holidays travel desk · 2 min read

Hyderabad's food reflects centuries of Nizami court kitchens, Deccani spices and Persian influences. It is reason enough to visit.

Biryani

Hyderabadi biryani is the city's signature. The traditional kacchi style layers raw marinated meat with partly cooked rice, sealed and slow-cooked on dum. It is usually served with mirchi ka salan (a chilli and peanut curry) and raita. Vegetarian versions are widely available.

Haleem

A slow-cooked mix of meat, wheat, lentils and spices, pounded to a rich, smooth texture. Hyderabadi haleem is closely associated with Ramadan, when stalls across the city serve it in the evenings. It holds a Geographical Indication tag.

Irani cafés

Old Irani cafés serve Irani chai, a sweet milky tea, with Osmania biscuits, slightly salty and sweet butter biscuits. Breakfast with bun maska is a Hyderabad ritual.

Sweets

• Double ka meetha: bread pudding soaked in milk and sugar.
• Qubani ka meetha: stewed apricots, often served with cream.
• Sheer khurma during Eid.

Snacks

• Lukhmi: a square savoury pastry stuffed with minced meat.
• Pathar ka gosht: meat cooked on a hot stone.
• Mirchi bajji: stuffed chilli fritters.

A food trail through the Old City

Start at Charminar and Laad Bazaar in the late afternoon. Try Irani chai, walk the lanes around the Mecca Masjid and stay for dinner. During Ramadan, the area comes alive after sunset with food stalls.

Vegetarian Hyderabad

Telangana and Andhra vegetarian meals are spicy and excellent: pesarattu, gongura pachadi and pulihora are worth trying.

Tips

• Spice levels can be high; ask for less spicy versions.
• Go with a guide for an Old City food walk the first time.

October to February is the most comfortable season for a food walk. See A food lover's guide to Lucknow's Awadhi cuisine for another great food city and Food and culinary holidays for food holidays.